Debt In Kamathipura

Anecdotal narration of our intern's escape from and discovery of the place.

Running up the wooden stairs with metal sheets nailed on (probably from countless footsteps), I reached the first floor and peeked into the deserted veranda. I took a brief pause, perhaps expecting more people, then I grasped the stairwell post and skipped a few steps while rushing up.

The second floor brought a shock. Half a dozen, maybe more, women sat in a group, some on the floor with their backs to the wall, others on stools, one on an opulent-looking ottoman. I tried to look away, searching for doors and an office.

“What are you looking for, Maalik?” the woman on the ottoman inquired, amusement, maybe even seduction, lacing her voice. “Maybe I’m in the wrong place,” I stammered, stepping back, hands still gripping the post.

“We are never the wrong place,” she chuckled, a symphony of laughter rippling through the veranda, “and even if we are, we’ll show you the right one.” 


“Looking for someone in particular?” another woman asked, her chin resting on her palm, elbow pressed into her thighs. “Deodatt bhai,” I replied, feeling stupid – stupid for being in a place where people barely owned their names, let alone be remembered by them. If there was a place where people cared less, this had to be it.

“I can tell you where your Deodatt bhai is, but will you pay me for it?” the woman by the railing spoke. I stood there, simply smiling, a mix of amusement and uncertainty at her request. I nodded. She pointed at the building next door. “Top floor, third office. But you owe me 200 for this.” Reaching for my wallet, unsure of the amount I had, “Not now,” she said, approaching me. “Find your Deodatt, and if it’s the right guy, come back and pay me then.” I don’t remember what I said, or maybe nothing at all. I ran down the stairs and entered the two-story building next door.

Unlike the previous one, this seemed newly built. Wider stairs with tiles replaced the worn wood. No one was in sight. I hurried up the stairs, finding Deodatt’s office on the second floor. As I entered his office, I quickly looked at the women I had met earlier. Some of them were gone, the woman I’d spoken to was entering one of the doors.

This was my first meeting with Deodatt, a bald man in his early 50s with a soft voice. I collected the money, sat down, and counted the bundles of rupees. The realization hit me – I was carrying a substantial amount, a target in this unforgiving environment. Deodatt’s parting words echoed: “Be careful. This isn’t the safest place with that kind of money.”

You understand true dilemmas when you have to make choices, particularly when you have to choose between your belief system and your fear. The pattern wanted me to go back to that woman, give her the promised money and leave, while the fear wanted me to not step into that building with this kind of money. As I walked down the stairs, my fear was fighting me and my need to be fair. I stood there for a long minute or two before I found myself climbing the debilitated stairs of the same old building, but this time slower, more deliberate. The number of women had dwindled to six, most in their thirties with a couple younger ones. They huddled around a stool laden pakodas and had tea cups in their hand. There was one glass of tea, placed in a saucer with some pakodas on the side.

“Did you find your Deodatt?” the woman from earlier inquired, a hint of amusement in her eyes. I smiled, reaching for my wallet to give her the promised money. Finding two hundred rupee notes, I extended my hand, my mind still wrestling with the fear and unsure why I came back. She burst into laughter, joined by the other women. Waving her hand dismissively, she said “Have the tea and pakoda before it gets cold”, offering me the glass of tea and some pakodas on the side.  I am not a tea drinker, the tea didn’t taste great either, the pakodas were fresh, and their banter with me was forgettable, but none of this mattered because while walking down those old stairs, I wasn’t feeling the fear anymore.

Historical Landmark of Shames

It’s been more than a decade and nothing has been done about the Brahmapuram Waste-management plant or the mountains of waste around it. 

Being called a ‘Kochi kaaran/kaari’ is something that people all around Kochi take immense pride in. From a well maintained metro service to the freakin’ Lulu mall, the people of Kochi have it all. Yet there is one historical landmark in Kochi that often goes unrecognized by the people, probably because of its huge guilt-causing factor. This landmark has not only uprooted the lives of the people around it, but has also become a gross symbol of the consequences of an inactive and uncaring government institution. Presenting the Brahmapuram Waste Management Plant, or more precisely, the dumping site of all the waste in Kochi since Narendra Modi became the Chief minister of Gujarat for the second time.

It is a sad yet true fact that most people in Kochi barely know anything about the Brahmapuram issue. It started all the way back in 1998 when the Cochin Corporation purchased 37.33 acres of land in Brahmapuram, in order to build a waste-management plant. It is important to know that this land was once a flood plain, lying between the Kadambrayar and the Chithrapuzha river. The wasteland that Brahmapuram is today, was once upon a time a lush, green paddy field.

Dr. Nirmala Padmanabhan, an Associate Professor at St. Teresa’s college and the Head of the Bhoomitra Sena club, talks about her experience when she visited the wasteland a few years ago. “The Brahmapuram plant is very badly managed with mountains of waste piling on top of one another. The stinking smell is just one of the many distinct characteristics of the place. You can also see how much the wasteland is polluting the Kadambrayar river that runs along it,” she says. The Kadambrayar river is the main source of drinking water for many of the institutions in and around Brahmapuram. 

The commission for building a waste-management plant that would process 200 tonnes of waste per day, became a reality only after nine years, in 2007.  And almost immediately, the plant was declared defunct in 2011. That’s record time for a government undertaken project to fall flat on its face, don’t you think? By 2016, the plant continued to be defunct and finally caught the attention of the National Green Tribunal. The NGT ordered the Cochin Corporation to take remedial measures and restore the facility, and as expected, nothing was done. 

Dr. C.M Joy, a retired Associate Professor of SH college and a passionate environmentalist, talks about the dire consequences it had on the people who lived in and around the area. “Unable to bear the stench and fumes arising from the heaps of garbage, almost 67 families were forced to sell their homes and land at cheap rates and move out. They were, perhaps, first of the many people in our state who would come to be known as ‘environmental refugees’,” he says.

The wake up call for the Cochin Corporation to do something about the Brahmapuram issue probably came with the 1 crore fine that the NGT slapped on them in 2018 for non-compliance of its 2016 order. Things started stirring up a little when GJ Eco Power Private Ltd. was entrusted with a Rs. 295 crore project that involved converting waste to energy. This was huge news and the newly appointed company vowed to finish the project by 2021. But Brahmapuram has always been famous for its broken promises. The very next year, the government cancelled its contract with GJ Eco Power, citing financial constraints.

Since 2012, Brahmapuram has contained the trash of 5 municipalities – Aluva, Angamaly, Kalamassery, Thrikkakara and Tripunithura – and two panchayats- Cheranalloor and Vadavucode-Puthencruz. All in all, the Brahmapuram wasteland receives almost 383 tonnes of waste every day. 

Now it’s not like private organizations haven’t offered to process the waste little by little. Last year, the Pelican Foundation had proposed to take away the waste at Rs. 2.20 per kg, but this was shot down by the Corporation, which blamed an ineffectual government directive that banned parallel waste treatment. Plus, they didn’t want to give away any of their waste, in case they run out of the raw material required to be converted into energy. 

According to Dr. C.N. Manoj, the CEO of Pelican Foundation, the people of Kochi themselves are only to blame for this disaster. “I would not hold the Cochin Corporation responsible as it is actually just a representation of the people of Kochi themselves. If every household in Kochi segregated their waste and set up a compost unit, the amount of waste which is being dumped in Brahmapuram, would decrease substantially,” he says. 

So what is the latest news on the issue? Well, plans for biomining were in the making in early 2021, with Zonta Infratech Pvt Ltd and Bauer GmbH, Germany being chosen as the consortium. But just like what had happened with GJ Eco Power, the quoted cost of Rs. 54 crore has been declared too high and the consortium, too inexperienced, to execute the project. 

The Cochin Corporation has, however, promised to implement a set of plans this year, from a Detailed Project Report on the Septage treatment plant, to the building of a storage shed for waste treatment. All in all, more than Rs. 10 crore has been allocated for the implementation of all these plans. But with what we have seen so far, Vijay Mallya has a better chance of going to jail than Brahmapuram having a fully-functioning and efficient waste treatment plant anytime soon.

20 years of Kochi

sIf time travelling was possible, would you want to go back in time or travel to the future? If you’re here in Kochi, what would you prefer—travelling to its past or to its future that losks as enticing as its past? Whenever we hear the phrase ‘Kochi pazhaya Kochiyalla,’ it makes us wonder for a moment about the weaves and looms of change that have come about in Kochi. An ambitious city flourishing in leaps and bounds, Kochi has seen a lot more changes than what meets the eye compared to other cities and towns in the state. Sometimes we are obliged to believe it’s a great and appreciable change and yet sometimes we bow down shamefully to what the city looks like in comparison to our golden olden days. Where are the greens? Where are the playgrounds? High-rise buildings, longer trails of vehicles on the road and improved connectivity in Kochi are some of the obvious signs of urbanisation. Buildings and businesses, transportation, fashion and shopping, food habits, automobiles, printing houses—they have all changed. Digging deep into Kochi’s new-found ways of travelling, eating, clothing, speech and reacting to situations, let’s look into the extent of change that has come about in the last 20 years. 

Things that remain

Being a port city that sees a perennial deluge of tourists, it has been Kochi’s sweet obligation to preserve some of the oldest buildings in Kerala including the Jewish Synagogues at Fort Kochi and Ernakulam, the Dutch Palace and the Hill Palace. These are some of the oldest architectures which remain untouched by Kochi’s swells of urbanisation. But moving further towards the interiors of the city, we get to see high-rise buildings, malls, and flyovers that did not exist until a few decades back. As this happened, some buildings had to be demolished while some have lost its distinction to the other towering constructions that came afterward. However, some buildings and places have not lost all their former glory and continue to contribute to Kochi’s old-world charm. For instance, a walk down to the Ernakulam market today during the peak hours of a day would probably make us wonder if anything has ever changed at all. Fort Kochi, Mattancherry and the Shanmugham road that stretches from High court to Park Avenue Road are some of the other few places that have resisted change. One thing out of all the adorable quirks about Kochi is its interesting names of places. Menaka, Padma, Pulleppady, Kappalandimukku, Kacheripady, Jos Junction and more on a long trailing list of names might give you the nudge to question its origins. These names once belonged to a person, a business or an institution related to the area. Started in the 60s, Jos Brothers, situated on MG Road, is famously known for pioneering premium services in fabric care in Kerala. The shop later became Kochi’s most reliable fashion hub. To this day, the place where it stands is locally known as Jos Junction. Once a popular theatre, Menaka is now a stand-alone bazaar called Penta Menaka that sells and repairs electronic gadgets. In the present-day Kochi, identifying a place has become as easy as finding the number on the nearest metro pillar or switching on Google maps on your phone. But to defend our old ways of roaming around the city, we ought to be grateful to have such strange place names that easily help you reach your destinations.

Besides these long-lasting names and flashy features of Kochi, there are countless places and attributes that have been forgotten like a midnight’s dream. The Old Railway Station near the High Court that links to the Mangalavanam Bird Sanctuary, the Indian Coffee houses that serves special piping hot cutlets with red filling, Hotel Sealord which used to be one of the few star hotels in the city are some of the memorable yet almost-forgotten places in Kochi. Moreover, go for a short ride from Edappally to Marine Drive on your motorcycle. We wouldn’t need a time traveller from the past to be telling us that Kochi is no more the same. With lesser parking spaces and congested roads, you will see the glaring signs of how we are running out of space. Ever wondered why MG Road isn’t the celebrated shopping destination for Kochiites anymore? In late 2019, the business community of MG Road and Banerji Road expressed their concern to the Kochi Corporation over the loss of business due to lesser motorists stopping by to do shopping. The fact that MG road and its surroundings may never regain its old glory has inspired numerous suggestions from urban planning strategists which include transforming the region into a residential complex. Assuming that most business establishments in the city have shifted to the bypass, MG road has become a forgotten shopper’s stop today.

Kochi’s highlights

Everyone loves to brag about their own city. And as for the people of Kochi, she “is a feeling,” and one may find countless adjectives to describe her beauty and charm. However, rummaging through Kochi’s most extroverted traits of all time, we may find it’s a blend of good, bad and ugly. We find ourselves irrevocably tangled in this pretty mess of a city and take pride in being called a Kochiite. Be it the most enigmatic Chinese fishing nets at Fort Kochi or the heaps of waste that are washed beneath them, the city is a confluence of oxymoronic sights. Think of the mosquitoes—Kochiites’ most malicious co-habitants. The wastes on the street are no less different to be honest. As opposed to these obnoxious images, it is often the quality attributes of Kochi that win the attention of the people across the globe. The picturesque, green-edged backwaters that appear on the brochures and websites for Kerala Tourism, the fishing harbours at Chellanam and Munambam and the most humble souls that make a living out of the place, the colourful streets of Fort Kochi that simultaneously remind of a bygone colonial era and the Kochi Muziris Biennale, the malls and shopping complexes, the lights, the Kochi Metro and a lot more images of the present-day Kochi rush to our minds as we think of Kochi. For the tourists especially, a brief introduction about Kochi should definitely include these major attractions. Let’s not forget Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, which have always been the welcoming spots for tourists. Being separated from the mainland, these islands render a wholly different experience for the tourists. The involvement of Greater Cochin Development Authority (GCDA) in Kochi’s current progress is laudable.  V Salim, Chairman, GCDA, observes that people in Kochi, compared to the past, have been more involved and dedicated towards realising Kochi’s dreams of becoming metropolitan city. It stands true to an extent as we see more motorists on the roads wearing helmets, more people choosing eco-friendly means and lesser wastes on roadsides compared to the previous decade. “Considering Kochi’s importance as an economic centre on the map of Kerala, and its greater importance in the tourism sector, the city has seen an unparalleled growth. Lately, the city has also been seeing a sharp growth in the number of people migrating to Kochi, from near and far. These are good signs of its growth as a city,” he observes. Salim recalls an Old Kochi where there were not many places one could go to spend some quality time with their loved ones. “Be it to catch a movie, to eat out at a good restaurant or to do shopping, we all had to travel miles to reach the city which was smaller back then. Today it has expanded and new businesses have come up at every nook and corner of Ernakulam,” he adds. The founders of Anaswara points out that the quality of life in Kochi has improved immensely and so has the convenience. Sure, there have been drawbacks too, in terms of pollution, natural calamities and climate. These are things we have to survive and overcome,” they say. Moreover, the Kochi metro has been the greatest and most welcoming change in the last decade,” they say. Kochi’s SmartCity project deserves an honourable mention as one of Kochi’s most futuristic projects besides the Metro project.

Transportation

Not so long ago, Kochi had lesser options for commuting. We used buses, rickshaws, and boats to reach our destinations. And it was typical that one had to start hours ahead of time from home to avoid being late to places. However, today we have more options including the metro which is on a mission to improve the overall connectivity in Kochi. A significant change that promoted Kerala, let alone Kochi as a looming presence on the World Tourism Map was the construction of Cochin International Airport Limited in 1995. This was the first ever international airport that allowed people to travel to various parts of the world and invited tourists from different parts of the world. The traffic that we see today in Kochi owes much to this new international terminal. However, the local connectivity in Kochi can be narrowed down to water and land transportation. From the ferry boats to the Metro trains, we shall look into the timeline of how Kochi’s modes of transportation have transformed over the years. Sujith P M, Superintendent, Kerala Water Transport Department comments on the public transportation system in Kochi. “I believe the introduction of Kochi Metro has been an appropriate step towards solving Kochi’s menacing road traffic conditions. A majority of commuters in the city are commoners who work at small scale industries and they include the non-native Kochiites too. And as we dream, the integrated transportation system ideated by KMRL will hopefully make transportation in Kochi easier and cheaper for the public,” he says. The centralised ‘command and control’ system will introduce a common ticketing and timetable, uniting the transport systems in the city.  

The Boats

One of the oldest and cheapest modes of transportation in Kochi is the boats that ply over the romantic backwaters. The State Water Transportation Department has been seminal in bridging the gap between the tiny islands and the mainland. However, the importance of ferry services has waned since the Goshree bridges were constructed. Today, the Kochi Water Metro project under the Kochi Metro Rail Limited has an estimated plan of introducing 78 boats that will traverse 16 lines and 38 stations. Sujith remarks that despite the introduction of metro trains, people in Kochi are still on the roads on their cars and motorcycles, adding to the traffic congestions. “This is where the relevance of ferry services kicks in. People can always choose the boat services to avoid the traffic and pollution. Nevertheless, I personally feel Kochi has been consciously making the best use of the existing ferry services,” he says.

Auto-rickshaws

Although the cost-effectiveness of auto-rickshaws is often questioned, it has many takers in the city. Whether you’re running late to the office or tired of waiting long hours at the bus station, auto-rickshaws have been a great help since the 60s. Today, however, with the advent of taxi apps such as Uber and Ola, the auto-rickshaws are being side-tracked. Besides the yellow/black tuk-tuk Ferraris or Lambretta, which was once the only kind of auto-rickshaws plying across Kochi, now there are auto–taxis, auto rickshaws that run on CNG and LNG and even online auto rickshaws.

Buses

Regardless of numerous options we have today, buses remain one of the most affordable and reliable modes of transportation in Kochi. The bus transport system has a long history that trails back to the time before the formation of Kerala, which was established in 1938 by Maharaja Shree Chithira Thirunal Balarama Varma. With over 50 glorious years of existence, the bus transport system has been the backbone of public transport in Kochi. The public road transport service in Kochi is dominated by the private buses (the red buses).

Kochi Metro Rail

On June 17, 2017, it was indeed a moment of pride for Kochi, when the first metro train majestically rolled out to the public. It has been one of Kochi’s most ambitious projects and as we enter the 3rd year of its services, there is no question as to how it has phenomenally changed Kochi—not just in terms of infrastructure but also in how it has been creating awareness among people towards sustainable goals.  

Businesses, shopping and fashion

Kochi’s cosmopolitan status in the state owes much to the sheer elegance with which it has been keeping pace with the global trends. Kochi has been a fertile ground for the growth of businesses. And as this happened over the past few decades, there has been an obvious change in the city’s quality of life too. Thanks to the numerous malls and shopping centres in Kochi, the population is now more brand-conscious than ever. A little less than two decades ago, the second mall in Kochi (after Bay Pride Mall at Marine Drive), Oberon Mall, was opened to the public and shopping has never meant the same for Kochiites. The most-welcomed event of the last decade, however, was the construction of Lulu Mall at Edappally. Shibu Philips, Business Head, Lulu Malls tells how the construction of the international airport at Nedumbassery, has made Kochi a premier location for businesses and tourism. “In the last two decades, the city has seen tremendous growth in all aspects and it has now become the commercial hub of Kerala. People have picked up new interests and lifestyles, of which shopping and fashion are being marketed the most. Lulu, which opened its first mall in Kerala at Kochi a decade ago, has made the people more sensitive to the changing trends in the world of fashion and shopping. It is one place in Kochi where you get everything you need. For instance, shopping has never been easier for Kochiites since Lulu was opened,” he says. The dawn of mall culture in the city has however led to the dwindling businesses in other parts of the city. Sheela Kochouseph Chittilapilly, Managing Director of V-Star, who started her Innerwear garment business in 1995, is a rightful representative of the business community in Kochi. She says that Kochi’s rapid growth as a city has influenced many businesses in the area, sometimes even to the point of failure. “Behind the entire buzz about Kochi’s progress in the past few years, there are many ignored facts about the city that eerily predicts a premature end to the city’s pride and happiness. This largely includes the congested roads and unkempt infrastructure,” she says. Sheela is one of the many traders in Kochi whose business is being challenged by its unruly traffic. “The shops closer to the busy roads in Kochi suffer the most these days mainly due to inefficient parking spaces. To quote an example, one of my stores near the Palarivattom flyover has been struggling due to the decline in the number of customers. The government should take responsibility in such cases and help the failing businesses to get back on track,” she adds. 

Anaswara Offset Private Limited situated at Edappally is one of the oldest printing presses in Kochi. Founded in 1986, the company has been able to keep pace with the changing trends in printing. “Kochi has changed a lot over the last 20 years. We believe, if the policies in Kochi are made to improve the ease of doing business, we will definitely see another rapid growth in the coming years. Our advice to the aspiring entrepreneurs is that nothing is impossible as long as you’ve made a system strictly based on ethics and determination to go that extra mile. At Anaswara, our motto has been to change along with the market trends and technology. We have somehow managed to incorporate that in our lives as well,” they say.

And yes, that might be a crucial clue to live a prosperous life as a well-meaning Kochiite—to keep ourselves updated on what’s new and be resilient to change.  

Food behaviour 

What’s cooking in your Kitchen? Is it naadan, Chinese or North Indian food? One of the easiest ways to understand how a person or a community has changed during a course of time would be to observe how and what they eat. Over the last few decades, Kochi has been slowly absorbing a cosmopolitan culture, which means more people are dining out regularly. Unlike in the heyday, today we can find hotels and restaurants at every nook and corner of the city. And clearly, it’s not just the youngsters and travellers who frequent the eateries in the city today. Restaurants are now places that see just as many families and older people as other categories of people who dine out regularly. Another game changer in our food habits has been the internet. It’s not always naadan food for Kochiites now, is it? We either sign into Youtube to find new recipes and dishes or the food delivery apps that have been constantly prying on our gastronomic urges. With all these glaring facts laid out on the table, there is no question about Kochi’s changing food preferences. Gopal Mohan, co-owner of Gokul Oottupura belongs to the 3rd generation of restaurateurs from his family. He points out that Kochi’s food interests have changed immensely. “Today, there is no dearth of international food brands in Kochi. However, for an average consumer, the flavours and comfort of local food is hard to replace. I believe there is a greater demand and shift towards authentic taste and flavours. It is very encouraging to see innovation and exploration happening in the industry in terms of bringing in new concepts, cuisines and also in providing an overall experience to the diners. For instance, vegetarian restaurants are not generally associated with a lot of innovation. But I feel there is opportunity to tap into the diverse food and lifestyle changes people have adopted,” he says. Gopal also comments on the advent of food delivery apps in the city. “Food delivery apps present a greater scope to reach a wider range of people and they have become an added business vertical for restaurateurs like me,” he says.

Ten libraries you must check out in Kochi

This one’s for all those who have fallen headlong into a book and emerged, many hours later, as if from a world of dreams. Every bookworm will know the joy of discovering book nooks in the city, be it a quaint secondhand book store or a coffee shop that allows you the luxury of whiling away the time with the latest bestseller. We have put together a list of 10 of Kochi’s libraries, some of which you already know about, but are a must in a list of this sort. And some that are tucked away in the middle of this city’s bustle, interesting finds that are as serendipitous as stumbling upon a first edition of your favourite book.

Tagore Library and Reading Room

Moulana Azad Road, Karuvelipady, Thopumpady

Named after Rabindranath Tagore, this library was formed by a group of youngsters in 1944. Yes, way before Independence. And it’s still going strong, with more than 1,100 members and a collection of over 25,000 books.

Open from 5pm-8pm on all days, except Mondays

Eloor Lending Library

Press Club Road

book-loving crowd. Set up in 1979 in Kochi by P Luiz John, the library now has branches in 5 cities across the country. The library caters for a wide variety of readers, from professionals to little kids. If you haven’t already, go get yourself one of their well-thumbed Tintin and Asterisk comics.

Open from 10am-7pm on all days

Ernakulam Public Library

Convent Road

This one’s a blast from the past. The state’s oldest library was set up in 1870. With over 10,000 members and more than 1.5 lakh books in a variety of languages, this is a book lover’s dream come true.

Open from 10am-7pm Monday to Saturday; 9.30am-5pm on Sunday

EMS Cooperative Library

Mavelipuram, Kakkanad

Set up by the Ernakulam District Cooperative Bank in 1999, the library now houses more than 20,000 titles. It even has a special section for the visually challenged and a space called the garden library, where one can read in the lap of nature.

Open from 1pm-7pm Monday to Saturday; 10am-5pm on Sunday

Pandit Karuppan Memorial Library

Thevara Ferry

This library offers membership only to those who reside nearby or to those who are introduced by existing members. The 60-year-old library has a reading room which is open from 7am to 7.30pm every day. Both children and adults make up the 400-strong membership of the library, which stocks over 12,000 titles.

Open from 5.30pm-7.30pm; closed on Sunday

Yashoda’s Library

Kappalandimukku, Mattancherry

This library was born from a little girl’s dream: young Yashoda, who was in class 7 at the time, wanted to make books accessible to all, irrespective of their financial status. She started the library last year, which lends books for free from her collection and her family’s contributions. There is no membership fee but books have to be returned in a fortnight.

Open from 9am-7.30pm on all days

Blossom Book Fair

Press Club Road

Every book lover in Kochi would have stopped by Blossom Book Fair at least once. Or twice. Or 10 times. What’s not to love about piles of pre-loved books at dirt-cheap prices! Why is a bookshop on the list of libraries? Because you can return books bought from the fair at 40 per cent of the cost; which means you can read for a nominal price.

Open from 10am-8pm on all days

AKG Memorial Library

Edapally Toll

Almost all of the city’s libraries have decades of stories to share. Like this one, that was begun in 1977. The library now has over 27,000 titles and more than 2,500 members. If you have an academic bent of mind, do check out the vast collection of books about science, research and medicine. The library’s reading room stays open from 6.30am to 8.30pm.

Open from 4pm to 8pm from Monday to Saturday; 10am to 6pm on Sunday

Mahatma Library

Thrippunithura

This library deserves a place in the annals of history. Begun in 1933 after A K Gopalan called for setting up a library during the Guruvayur satyagraha in 1932, the library was a venue for freedom fighters to meet and discuss developments. Mahatma Gandhi himself has visited the library that was named after him.  

Mulanthuruthy Public Library

Mulanthuruthy

Winner of the State Library Council’s Best Library Award 2017-18, this library stocks more than 23,000 titles. What’s more, the library also grows paddy in a 5-acre farmland it owns, which had been lying fallow for over 30 years, and sells organic produce.

Open from 6am-6pm on all days

Other notable libraries in the city include Granthapura (which has multiple branches), 

The Reading Room (Vazhakkala), and the T S Murali Memorial Open Library (Vaduthala).

Ten libraries you must check out in Kochi

This one’s for all those who have fallen headlong into a book and emerged, many hours later, as if from a world of dreams. Every bookworm will know the joy of discovering book nooks in the city, be it a quaint secondhand book store or a coffee shop that allows you the luxury of whiling away the time with the latest bestseller. We have put together a list of 10 of Kochi’s libraries, some of which you already know about, but are a must in a list of this sort. And some that are tucked away in the middle of this city’s bustle, interesting finds that are as serendipitous as stumbling upon a first edition of your favourite book.

Tagore Library and Reading Room

Moulana Azad Road, Karuvelipady, Thopumpady

Named after Rabindranath Tagore, this library was formed by a group of youngsters in 1944. Yes, way before Independence. And it’s still going strong, with more than 1,100 members and a collection of over 25,000 books.

Open from 5pm-8pm on all days, except Mondays

Eloor Lending Library

Press Club Road

book-loving crowd. Set up in 1979 in Kochi by P Luiz John, the library now has branches in 5 cities across the country. The library caters for a wide variety of readers, from professionals to little kids. If you haven’t already, go get yourself one of their well-thumbed Tintin and Asterisk comics.

Open from 10am-7pm on all days

Ernakulam Public Library

Convent Road

This one’s a blast from the past. The state’s oldest library was set up in 1870. With over 10,000 members and more than 1.5 lakh books in a variety of languages, this is a book lover’s dream come true.

Open from 10am-7pm Monday to Saturday; 9.30am-5pm on Sunday

EMS Cooperative Library

Mavelipuram, Kakkanad

Set up by the Ernakulam District Cooperative Bank in 1999, the library now houses more than 20,000 titles. It even has a special section for the visually challenged and a space called the garden library, where one can read in the lap of nature.

Open from 1pm-7pm Monday to Saturday; 10am-5pm on Sunday

Pandit Karuppan Memorial Library

Thevara Ferry

This library offers membership only to those who reside nearby or to those who are introduced by existing members. The 60-year-old library has a reading room which is open from 7am to 7.30pm every day. Both children and adults make up the 400-strong membership of the library, which stocks over 12,000 titles.

Open from 5.30pm-7.30pm; closed on Sunday

Yashoda’s Library

Kappalandimukku, Mattancherry

This library was born from a little girl’s dream: young Yashoda, who was in class 7 at the time, wanted to make books accessible to all, irrespective of their financial status. She started the library last year, which lends books for free from her collection and her family’s contributions. There is no membership fee but books have to be returned in a fortnight.

Open from 9am-7.30pm on all days

Blossom Book Fair

Press Club Road

Every book lover in Kochi would have stopped by Blossom Book Fair at least once. Or twice. Or 10 times. What’s not to love about piles of pre-loved books at dirt-cheap prices! Why is a bookshop on the list of libraries? Because you can return books bought from the fair at 40 per cent of the cost; which means you can read for a nominal price.

Open from 10am-8pm on all days

AKG Memorial Library

Edapally Toll

Almost all of the city’s libraries have decades of stories to share. Like this one, that was begun in 1977. The library now has over 27,000 titles and more than 2,500 members. If you have an academic bent of mind, do check out the vast collection of books about science, research and medicine. The library’s reading room stays open from 6.30am to 8.30pm.

Open from 4pm to 8pm from Monday to Saturday; 10am to 6pm on Sunday

Mahatma Library

Thrippunithura

This library deserves a place in the annals of history. Begun in 1933 after A K Gopalan called for setting up a library during the Guruvayur satyagraha in 1932, the library was a venue for freedom fighters to meet and discuss developments. Mahatma Gandhi himself has visited the library that was named after him.  

Mulanthuruthy Public Library

Mulanthuruthy

Winner of the State Library Council’s Best Library Award 2017-18, this library stocks more than 23,000 titles. What’s more, the library also grows paddy in a 5-acre farmland it owns, which had been lying fallow for over 30 years, and sells organic produce.

Open from 6am-6pm on all days

Other notable libraries in the city include Granthapura (which has multiple branches), 

The Reading Room (Vazhakkala), and the T S Murali Memorial Open Library (Vaduthala).

Who Loves Kochi?

Who are we when nobody’s watching? When we are done blaming the government, various departments and the migrant population for Kochi’s woes, it’s time to turn the mirror inward and take a close look at our civic sense

There’s no denying that Kochi is beautiful just the way it is. Could it be the climate, the people or the ubiquitous charm and calm of the city that makes us want to dream a little bit more? A true-blue Kochiite would probably nod a fervent yes to all of this. But what, in reality, does it take to love your city and be proud of it? Some of us might want to step down from our ivory towers for this. Because it all comes down to the question, ‘Who are we when nobody’s watching?’ 

With our identities divided over so many realms today, starting from our own homes to the countless social media and other public spaces, our integrity as a responsible human being should be under the lens. Your Instagram posts may tell the world that you’re a minimalist or an eco-friendly person. But what about the heap of plastic waste you burned to ashes last weekend? Why not put that up on Instagram too? And just as much as we speak endlessly about the perks of living in this city, there are a few things about Kochi that make us cringe. From the rotting pile of waste on every other lane in the city to the canals breeding mosquitoes, Kochi has many cringeworthy sights that reflect our unruly behaviour. It’s an ugly blame-game today—between those in power and the citizens—about the pitiable circumstances in the city. It is time we all acknowledge that the welfare of the place we live in is a shared responsibility of the authorities and the people. However, with the pile-up of recent events—from the flash floodings to the building demolitions at Maradu and the bridge construction at Palarivattom that went haywire—it is becoming tougher for the Kochiite to love this city. But hey, it’s February, the month of love. Let’s hope to reignite our love for this magnificence of a city. 

The weird imbalance between our dreams about Kochi and its reality could be one of the reasons why we often fall into a dreary disillusionment about the city’s progress. Moreover, our moments of willingness to be a responsible citizen are overshadowed by the questions that come back to haunt us: “Is Kochi even close to what our parents told us it was?”, “Is it the same Kochi our teachers described to us?” and “Were the leaders bluffing when they promised change?” Frankly, it could be our lack of faith that is stopping us from working towards change. 

For District Collector S Suhas, Kochi is a cosmopolitan and sprightful place to be. “Kochi is progressing very fast and I think a positive growth is in order if the principles of scientific urban development and zonal regulations are followed,” he says, hinting at the recent plight of the flat owners at Maradu. The relentless inconvenience caused by the age-old problems in Kochi, such as improper drainage systems, waste pollution, and drinking water shortage, is still rampant within the city limits. Suhas reminds us that it is a lack of well-functioning systems that causes this rut. “A comprehensive urban development plan, which deals with these problems, should be set in place. There should also be a system to effectively coordinate various agencies and local bodies that can take up the responsibilities. Public audit, deadline monitoring and feedback mechanisms are some of the systems we should focus on,” he says.

With the advent of Cochin International Airport Limited (CIAL) and Kochi Metro, Kochi has been propelled towards new heights of development. Alkesh Kumar Sharma, Managing Director of Kochi Metro Rail Ltd, believes that Kochi has all the qualities needed to develop into a city of global standards. “The city has a lot of positive qualities, but there are some things that need to be worked on, like bettering the civic infrastructure and waste management. There should be an improved sewage management system, and the canals have to be made cleaner and navigable. The roads have to be improved, especially the smaller roads that connect to the city’s main roads. The one thing I would strongly recommend is a wholesome family entertainment avenue in the city,” he says. For Jose Dominic, founder of CGH Earth Group, Kochi is an unparalleled city on the subcontinent, steeped in history. “Kochi represents Kerala’s aspirations for the future,” he says. He also compares it with Istanbul on the basis of its ancient cultural values and ability to adapt. However, he expresses his disappointment over the attitude of people and authorities in waste management. “Interestingly, Kochi’s performance in segregating the waste at source is the highest in the country. Sadly, after segregation, the waste is put back together. But on the bright side, the challenges of the present are only of our making and they await smart solutions,” he adds.   

K R Vijayan and Mohana Vijayan, the tea-stall owners famous for having travelled to more than 20 countries in the past 40 years, have seen the city change over the years. Vijayan believes that Kochi may not be on the right path to progress. “Compared to the olden days, life is harder now. Everything is polluted or corrupted in unimaginable ways. Tall buildings, metro rails and malls are not what define the progress of a city. Compared to the places we have visited, I feel Kochi is now at a standstill in terms of progress,” he says. Such disappointment over the way Kochi has changed is obvious in people like Vijayan, who belong to the older generation. On the contrary, the younger generations trust implicitly in the positive growth of the city. Swetha Ann Thomas, an MBA student, says she feels Kochi has evolved into an open, buoyant and all-embracing social butterfly, who is ready to face anything thrown at it. “I believe we can look at what Kochi is now and be proud of what is yet to come,” she says. S R Nair, an entrepreneur and member of the Better Kochi Response Group believes that Kochi, in all its glory, is here to stay. “But to maintain the proud title ‘Queen of The Arabian Sea’, Kochi and its people need to up the ante. We also lack an accountable governance system in Kochi which results in dwindling public services and more number of irresponsible citizens,” he says.

The staggering population in Kochi is indeed a hindrance to tackle our many problems, including housing, water availability, road traffic, waste management and pollution. It’s the sense of belonging which often makes us behave responsibly and do things with love, and Nair believes that the lack of love for the city in the migrant population is one of the reasons why they do not fulfil their responsibilities. “The NRIs from Kochi often behave like a varuthan and visit their homeland only during the holidays. What I believe in is that we ought to accept Kochi as a mother and treat her well,” he says. Of course, there are also a clutch of responsible NRIs, who still nurture their pride in being a Kochiite. Manohar Thomas, a TV personality from a Malayalam channel in the US, says Kochi’s business sector has seen tremendous growth in the last few years. “There is development right before our eyes. But red-tapism and corruption have certainly curtailed the development of the city. Also, I believe that the people of Kochi need to respect each other, their space and existence,” he says. Considering the above evaluations, Kochi avows a confusing status quo before the world. But, since it is in our nature to focus on the morose and wretched, today, Kochi is casually being tagged ‘dirty’ by its people. Waste management, following road traffic rules and spending our resources wisely may be some of the areas that we tend to err in. We like to blame the PWD, the Municipal Corporation and everyone but ourselves for the mess that we are in. Sometimes, we even find comfort in the mess and learn to live with it. From the mosquitoes that lull us to sleep every night to the stench from the backyard that wakes us from our slumber every morning, Kochiites have found their comfort in being messy. But, at the flip of a coin, we are also keen to support Greta Thunberg, the youngest climate change activist in the world. Such glaring irony! Now that we’ve discussed our reasons to look down on the city, we might as well count our blessings for being in Kochi and talk about what she deserves. In October 2018, Kochi was ranked 7th among the top 10 cities to visit in 2020 by the popular travel guide Lonely Planet. For many years, Kochi has been attracting multitudes of travellers, traders, and explorers to its tropical Malabar Coast. And we rightfully boast of a rich, cultural heritage and well-preserved history. While it could be true that our problems often stand in the way of feeling proud of our city, we should, however, not turn a blind eye to Kochi’s growth over the last few decades. Many a thousand dreams about Kochi’s bright future have been focused on the tourism sector of Kerala. ”Kochi is the gateway of Kerala.The state’s biggest success has been tourism and Kochi has a lot to do with this boom in the sector. What I’ve observed is that most NRIs from Kerala, after they return to India, wish to settle down in Kochi. It’s multi-cultural and offers an interesting modern lifestyle, for the most part. I believe the Kochi Metro project and the Kochi Muziris Biennale are all perfect examples of this,” says Dominic. He also points out that Kochi has everything that we could ask for, from its port to an international airport adding that the local government should be responsible enough to provide good governance consistently. 

Kochi is home to the world’s first solar-powered airport at Nedumbassery, which also became a UN-endorsed project that is now a model for the rest of the world. The idea of tapping green power is gathering steam across the state today as an effective alternative to tackle the shortage of electricity. People are moving to solar energy in their homes, which implies that people are aware of the climate emergency caused by the overuse or misuse of resources. The Smart City project coming up at Infopark, Kakkanad is, at heart, another futuristic project that has been one of the reasons for Kochi’s happiness. The Kochi Metro was a crucial addition to the city’s infrastructure promoting the use of public transportation. Today, with a daily ridership of 60,000, the Metro has increased the connectivity between places in Kochi. Also worth a mention is its eco-friendly measures such as solar-powered stations, e-autos, plastic recycling machines, etc. At present, Kochi Metro project is on the road to becoming the first in India to have an integrated transport system that combines the metro, buses, boats, auto-rickshaws, and taxis. Alkesh Sharma, in a word of advice to the people in the city, says that only smart citizens can make the city smarter in all respects. “The people of Kochi are educated and skilled, and have a decent civic sense. I feel they need to be more responsible in a few areas, especially waste dumping, energy conservation, and using public transport. With options like the Kochi Metro available, people should rely less on their own vehicles and use public transport options. If you travel to any well-developed city, you will see that most of the people in the city rely on public transport. That should be the way forward for Kochi’s citizens as well. Another important aspect would be to look at avenues of non-motorised transport, like cycling. I would like to see more people cycling in Kochi, not just as a fitness activity but as a mode of transport,” he says.

As we’re in the process of bidding farewell to Kochi’s rickety means of transportations and other troubling issues, we also need a gentle reminder to patiently regrow our civic sense—to be thankful for what we have and to do our bit to sustain our resources. Suhas sheds light on how this can be organically imbibed among the people of Kochi. “Encouraging a culture of proper civic sense through education can bring changes. We may begin by tidying up all the offices and public places. In my opinion, a Singapore model of accountable civic life may be discussed,” he says. 

“Let the denizen consider Kochi as his mother city by ensuring responsible solid waste management (rather than dumping it on the roads), better driving sense (rather than the confrontational and lawless speeding from all sides), paying taxes on time (instead of trying to evade it and stash it elsewhere) and collectively demanding accountable level of services from our Corporation councillors and bureaucrats,” says Nair. As the fangs of a consumerist lifestyle have sunk its teeth deep into the psyche of the people in Kochi, the consequent damage done to the environment seems almost irreversible. The rising number of cars and motorcycles on the roads, unregulated felling of trees for furniture, the fast-food culture and uncontrolled pollution are indeed painful blows to the city. Vijayan, for instance, observes that Kochi could better itself by resorting to the old modes of transportation, such as using bicycles and state-run transportation. 

“In Kochi’s heyday, not everyone had the privilege to move around in a bike or car. But today, there are very few houses in Kochi that do not have a car or a motorcycle. I think this is affecting the environment badly,” he observes. Kochi’s attempts to overcome such hopelessness amongst citizens are backed by an optimistic younger crowd. Swetha, for instance, admits that she is absolutely in love with Kochi’s vibes. “No matter who you are or where you come from, Kochi always has a place for you,” she says. 

In a word of advice to her city-mates, Swetha adds that constructive conversations can initiate the changes we wish to see around us. “We should not wait for a disruption to start talking. Instead, these conversations about change should ensure that everyone is acquainted with what’s happening around us. After all, change starts with us. Once we take responsibility for our actions, it will be easier for our government to help us in return,” she says. 

This journey of ours to a better place needs both patience and effort and perhaps a little bit of kindness to ourselves. Does this sound like an idea stolen from a self-help book? To be fair, it should! With a little more self-awareness and patience, we’ll know how to stop stepping on the same rake—of polluting the land, breaking the rules and being intolerant to change. Recalling Bear Grylls’s motto from Man Vs Wild: it’s time that we “improvise, adapt and overcome” the obstacles of our times. And for all the days we’ve spent cursing the mosquitoes, the stench from the sewage canals and other demons on the loose in the city, may this be the day we get rid of our own demons. May this be the day that we fall in love with our beloved city, and perhaps strike a more heartfelt pose in front of the ‘I LOVE KOCHI’ sign. 

BOX

A Helping Hand From The Outsider

Our team spoke to Liveable Urbanism, a group of researchers and masters’ students from the Welsh School of Architecture at Cardiff University, which has been working on mission cities in India. Listed below are their contributions and observations about Kochi as an upcoming Smart City. 

Tell us a bit about Liveable Urbanism and its contributions to Kochi.

Liveable Urbanism is a group of researchers and masters’ students from the Welsh School of Architecture at Cardiff University. We have been working on mission cities in India with the School of Planning and Architecture in Delhi for the last two years. Last year we worked in Mangaluru, yet another Smart City funded city with support from the Welsh Government office in Bengaluru. This year, we are focusing on Kochi, with support from the Indian Institute of Architects. Our research is independent and has no commitments to any planning or funding agencies. However, we are keen to present our findings to the GCDA, Cochin Corporation and the Cochin Smart City Mission Limited, to assist them in creating a dynamic urban strategy for Kochi. We focus on understanding the city and reading it as a complex system that is constantly reacting to different actors, including the government, individuals, the community, investors and the environment. We aim to achieve a comprehensive approach to make Kochi more liveable by improving the quality of life for its citizens. For this, we need to address the root cause of the issue, rather than reacting to the problems that are visible from the surface.

What sustainable solutions can help Kochi? 

Kochi is surrounded by water, yet there is poor access to clean drinking water in many areas. This is mostly down to the badly polluted waterways, which is prominent in many Indian cities. Every person in Kochi produces half a kilo of waste per day and a large proportion of it is not properly managed. The lack of recycling of organic and plastic waste means it ends up in the waterways; many sewage lines run directly into the canals. This not only affects the flow of water, biodiversity and fish stock but it also means water needs to be harvested further away from the city which becomes costly. Many water courses are also covered in water hyacinth, which is a significant environmental problem

 If you can revalue waste as a resource at a local level, it could become instrumental in providing energy or other useful products to the city. Kerala used to produce most of its food locally; however, now it is mostly imported from elsewhere. Encouraging locally grown food in and around the city and limiting reliance on imports would keep profit within the city, improve the health of its citizens by eating locally, and create a circular economy that will ultimately allow for higher quality urban services. There are plenty of farmlands within Kochi and Kerala; however, encroachment by rapid urban development is diminishing these rich agricultural environments. These sensitive ecological areas are also essential in defending the city from floods; however, their change of use is adversely affecting the urban fabric and its inhabitants. Kochi will inevitably flood; but its resilience to climatic events can be improved by better infrastructure and dynamic response systems. Changing behaviour at a remote level can be achieved through research, information, knowledge and education, allowing Kochi’s invaluable natural resources to be revalued and utilised. Restoring respect for the environment is fundamental for Kochi’s sustainability and resilience. 

The people in Kochi need to be more aware of their civic responsibilities.How can we achieve this?

There needs to be more active participation from civic bodies and people within Kochi in relation to civic activities. Kochi should not be improved by people like us; we may only be able to contribute to the discussions on the challenges and solutions. The increasing alienation of communities needs to be addressed through appropriate methods for them to participate and establish their right to the city. Empowering citizens to make independent and informed decisions on city affairs is fundamental for developing a better connection between people, the city and the environment. As external spectators, our independent research may help in this debate but we feel that ultimately there needs to be a change in behaviour and spatial systems to facilitate and develop civic sense and engagement. Furthermore, there needs to be a better appreciation of the  different types of communities (religious, social, educational and spatial) that exist within the city, who have their own needs and perceptions. A diverse collection of citizens needs to be involved and not just those with power or wealth in the city.

Chellanam | Travails By The Sea

Swell waves—4m high at times—and the sea erosion caused by them, are not new to the people of Chellanam. The people of the area have been petitioning governments for years for protection. In a bid to protect the area from sea erosion, the government had promised to set up a groyne field (pulimuttu) made of geotube in Chellanam by December 2018. However, two years down the line, the project is yet to be completed and is mired in controversy.

Reports say that of the 50,000 people in the panchayat, 10,000 live along the 17.5km-long coastline. This year, water from the sea reached the main road, which is 600m away from the coast. Among the buildings that have been affected are a school and a clinic. The seawall only covers the northern stretches of the panchayat, and it is not expected to hold up for long.

Where is the political will? When IIT-M has proposed a viable and permanent solution like the pulimuttu, why is it not being taken up? I have met four District Collectors so far. The government knows that this is the solution. Instead, they are asking people to evacuate the houses they have lived in for generations, and to move elsewhere. How is that fair?

Rev. Samson Anjiliparambil, who has been working with the people of Chellanam for nine years

A COVID-19 hotspot under lockdown for the past two weeks, Chellanam is now being flooded by an angry sea. While walls break down and streets are flooded, the residents worry about opening their doors to neighbours for fear of infection

The Place Where No One Goes. An unverified Wikipedia entry claims that this is what the word Chellanam means. Today, Chellanam seems to be living up to this meaning. For the past two weeks, this small coastal village has been locked down because of the sharp spike in COVID-19 cases. And, for the past few days, the sea has been ravaging the village, breaking walls, flooding homes and streets, and playing havoc with a population already under siege by the coronavirus.

But Chellanam and its surrounding coastal areas were a picture-perfect postcard a few decades ago. “I remember there was a huge beach here when I was younger,” says fisherman Xavier Anand, 44, whose home has been inundated by the sea this year. “We would play football and cricket on the beach as kids. It was a beautiful place, with a pretty beach and coconut groves. Then the sea encroached on the land, and now there is no beach. It is not that we were determined to build our homes right where the tides hit. The fact is we built our homes when the sea was a beautiful glimmer in the distance; today it is almost at our door and we are being made to pay the price.”

No Prevention, No Cure

Swell waves—4m high at times—and the sea erosion caused by them, are not new to the people of Chellanam. The people of the area have been petitioning governments for years for protection. In a bid to protect the area from sea erosion, the government had promised to set up a groyne field (pulimuttu) made of geotube in Chellanam by December 2018. This project envisioned the setting up of geotube groynes along parts of the coastline; these breakwaters extend into the sea and if positioned in line with the sea currents, absorbs much of the impact of tidal waves, even during lunar cycles that cause swell tides. 

However, two years down the line, the project is yet to be completed and is mired in controversy. Dr V Sundar, professor at the department of ocean engineering, IIT-Madras—which worked on the coastline protection project for the state government, “The geotube will function as a shock absorber to reduce the power of the waves,” he said in an interview earlier this year. IIT-M was first commissioned to study Kerala’s coastline in 2007, after the tsunami. Following the institute’s recommendations, the groyne field technology has been implemented in over 20 coastlines in Kerala; 25 groynes were laid, using boulders and rocks. It was a scarcity of rock that led to the IIT-M reviewing its plans and making a change to using geotubes and geotextiles. Dr Sundar says the new system is eco-friendly and cost-effective, compared to sea walls made of rocks and boulders.

Meanwhile, the irrigation department—which is in charge of the project—has not found any takers for the short tenders it put out for the project earlier this year. On the other hand, Mohammed Niyas, the previous contractor of the project, has approached the court, citing wrongful termination of contract and non-payment of bills. While the irrigation department and Niyas exchange allegations of misconduct, Chellanam’s homes remain woefully open to the forces of nature.

Made Worse By The Pandemic

The pandemic has not been kind to the people of Chellanam either. Two weeks ago, an elderly man from the fishing community, who worked at the local harbour, tested positive for COVID-19. What followed was a healthcare nightmare; officials consider this COVID-19 hotspot as being one of the top ten clusters in the state. The lockdown protocols in place and the fear of the coronavirus have made it near-impossible for people to reach out and help each other like they did in earlier years when flooding happened. 

It was second nature for the people of Chellanam to open up their doors and welcome in family and neighbours when homes got flooded. But the fear of the virus and social distancing norms mean that those affected by the floods are mostly suffering alone. “Our home sits right on the seashore,” says Susy of Puthenthode. “We had two rooms towards the back of my plot. Both of those rooms have fallen in. The sea has flooded my kitchen, and filled it with sand and dirt. We fear stepping into the house now as it looks like it may fall down at any moment. And we didn’t know where to go because of the coronavirus problem. My relative had received a plot to build a house after the tsunami struck. We have moved into the house on that plot; the house is not yet fully constructed but it is safer than being at home.”

Reports say that of the 50,000 people in the panchayat, 10,000 live along the 17.5km-long coastline. This year, water from the sea reached the main road, which is 600m away from the coast. Among the buildings that have been affected are a school and a clinic. The seawall only covers the northern stretches of the panchayat, and it is not expected to hold up for long. Residents live in fear that the sea may breach the wall at any time. It is not uncommon for people to wake up from sleep to flooded kitchens and living rooms. 

The Political & Administrative Tango

The situation is adding to the political ammunition of the Opposition. Ernakulam MP Hibi Eden, who belongs to the Congress party, deplored the condition of the people of Chellanam on social media. Though his initial post and tweet seemed to castigate the non-action by the LDF government, he soon changed his stance. He went on to write that this was not the time for a blame game, but the time to help the people of Chellanam. He also added that he has been distributing rice and food kits among the affected people, and exhorted people to contribute towards the seawall-building efforts.

Meanwhile, District Collector S Suhas said the district administration and the minor irrigation department has begun distributing geobags in Chellanam. The bags will be filled with sand, and placed along the coastline with the help of volunteers from the local community. He said that all precautions are being taken in the light of the COVID-19 situation even while proceeding with the work of shoring up the sea wall.

Much Ado About Nothing

Residents of the area, however, believe the state will quickly forget their woes. “All this hullabaloo will die down once the immediate danger is over,” says a resident of nearby Mundamveli, who preferred not to be named. “This has been the story of Chellanam for years now. Normally, the people help each other get through the crisis. This year, because of the pandemic and the fear of infection, that too is not happening.” 

Rev. Samson Anjiliparambil, who works with the Social Service Society of the Latin Catholic Church, lived and worked with the people of Chellanam for nine years. He is livid that the government is not taking action to help the people here. “Where is the political will?” He asks. “When IIT-M has proposed a viable and permanent solution like the pulimuttu, why is it not being taken up?” Rev. Samson has been part of the people’s agitation for a safer living space for all the years he has lived in Kochi. “I have met four District Collectors so far,” he says. “The government knows that this is the solution. Instead, they are asking people to evacuate the houses they have lived in for generations, and to move elsewhere. How is that fair?”

Both Rev. Samson and social activist Jayan Kunnel allege that there may be ulterior motives to getting people to vacate the land. Rumours of selling the land to commercial interests fly hard and fast. And the people are not backing down. “The government says we are to move our homes 50m away from the seashore. But how can we do that? Land is so expensive here,” says Xavier. “The government will pay us ₹10 lakh as compensation, it says. But will it be enough to buy land? To build a home? The government says this because it has not cared to know us or to understand us as a community, or as human beings. The only permanent solution for this problem is to build enough pulimuttu across the coastline. We have decided that we will vote only once the pulimuttu comes up.”

Jayan Gunnel says the repeated appeals by legislators for repatriation suggests something fishy. “The sea will not stop encroaching just because people move away,” he says. “The pulimuttu is the only permanent solution. So why wait for people to move out? Why not build the pulimuttu so that they can continue residing in their homes safely?”

The People’s Will

“When the floods hit Kerala in 2018, our community, including me, went out wholeheartedly to help flood-hit people in Paravoor and Aluva,” says Xavier. “At that point, the government lauded us, calling us its army. But those were just momentary words of praise. We—the coastal community—have been suffering for decades now, and everyone turns a deaf ear to our plight. We have been treated with indifference.” But they are not ready to simply sit back and suffer any more.

Frustrated by the lack of political will, the people are getting ready to take matters into their own hands. A social collective called Chellanam 20-20 will contest the upcoming civic body polls. The non-political organisation, fashioned on the lines of Kizhakkambalam 20-20 (the first non-political organisation to come to power in a panchayat in India), is now campaigning on social media, owing to COVID-19 lockdown restrictions. 

Men and women in the age group of 20-50 years will contest for the 21 seats of Chellanam panchayat. The core team of Chellanam 20-20 consists of 10 people, says one of the leaders, Charles Biju. The group hopes to strike a voice of protest in the face of political and governmental apathy. 

We have reached out to the Chief Minister’s office, the Ernakulam District Collector’s office, the Chief Engineer of the Irrigation Department and the Principal Secretary of the Fisheries Department, with queries on the issues raised by the people of Chellanam. We are yet to receive a response from them.

Phnom Penh | A Phoenix Rising

The pandemic has snatched the word ‘travel’ from us. Until our doors can open again, the memories of our previous globetrotting experiences will have to tide us over. Memories of our wanderings across this slice of a magical country. 

Cambodia is a country filled with beauty set against a backdrop of turbulent history. The first thing that comes to mind when I think of the country is the smiling faces of the locals, giving me their traditional Sampeah greeting and the sounds of the tuk-tuks. Filled with stories and culture, the cities of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap welcomed me with open arms and ushered me into their gorgeous lands. 

The French-built city of Phnom Penh—once known as the Pearl of Asia—bustles with the sounds of both locals and tourists. The easiest mode of transport around the city is by tuk-tuk. While there are taxis, motorcycles and buses, the charm that comes with travelling around the city in a tuk-tuk is unparalleled. The busy bazaars and markets are loud with Khmer, the language that the local people speak.

One of my first stops in the city was the Royal Palace. The palace, with its sprawling open grounds and iconic high yellow walls, is open to the public except for the royals’ living quarters as it is still a residential palace. One of the main attractions is the elaborate Silver Pagoda. No photographs are allowed inside but it is truly a sight to behold. It is home to a life-sized Gold Buddha covered with a whopping 2,086 diamonds. The temple gets its name from the floor, which is covered with 5 tonnes of gleaming silver. After a round of exploring, I joined other tourists to relax in the cool grass shaded by the Moonlight Pavilion.

History Beckons

Next, I made my way to the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre. It is strange to describe a place named the ‘Killing Fields’ as peaceful, but it was just that. It is quiet and hushed, even as heaps of people walk through them. Most, including myself, had our audio guides in, which served as a necessary reminder that the peace the land carries now has come at a cost that is too heavy to fathom. A symbol of one of the darkest times in Cambodian history, the fields, where the Choeung Ek Memorial Park stands, served as the site for mass graves and executions. Millions of people were tortured and killed on these lands during the Khmer Rouge regime and it was bone-chilling to be instructed that we might notice skeletal remains or teeth washed up by rains while we walk in the park.

But despite the horrors of the past, Cambodia refuses to lock its doors, and concede defeat. The city is loud in its welcome and has much to offer the tourists who make their way to Phnom Penh. 

Food and Shopping

The Central Market is a must-visit for shopping and a healthy dose of Phnom Penh’s culture and people. It has four wings filled with shops and stalls selling gold and silver jewellery, antique coins, stationery and clothes, among other items. I purchased for myself a lovely krama, a checked scarf that is a traditional Cambodian garment commonly sold in the market. There are also a number of food stalls in this busy bazaar that sell street food delicacies. I also enjoyed my long walks down Sisowath Quay, a charming riverside promenade dotted with shops, cafes and restaurants.

The Khmer cuisine was a whole new experience for me. Some of my favourite new finds were the fish amok curry with its delicious coconut cream, and beef lok lak served with rice. There were some adventurous dishes on the menu at Romdeng, including deep fried tarantula, which I just could not muster up the courage to eat.

Romdeng is a lovely restaurant set in a French Colonial villa overlooking tropical gardens and a pool. This restaurant is run by members of an NGO which provides lifesaving support and vocational training to disadvantaged youths. Some of my favourite street food finds in the city were the delicious Yakitori chicken skewers that I picked up from the stall at Street 123 and the breakfast soup Kuy Teav. 

Siem Reap

A short plane ride away from Phnom Penh awaited Siem Reap, the gateway to the temples of Angkor. One of the sights I was most looking forward to visiting was Angkor Wat, the prestigious temple complex that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After the pleasantly shaky tuk-tuk ride to the temple at 4am, my guide insisted that we take the East Gate.

It was only as he handed me a small torch and began walking me down a dusty, narrow path that I began to second guess the decision. However, after a short wait in the darkness, sunrise came. My torch fell aside, forgotten, and I sat in awe, watching the majestic temples outlined against the sky that was coming to life. The East Gate is quiet and relatively undisturbed as most tourists flock to the lotus pond at the West Gate. Sitting there in the silence, with the cool, morning air against my skin was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The temple itself is mesmerising, with 3,000 apsaras (heavenly nymphs) carved into the walls and bas-relief carvings that depict historical events and stories from mythology. Be sure to set aside an entire day to explore the vast and detailed Angkor complex.

My personal favourite has to be the ancient Ta Prohm temple, swallowed up and locked in by giant trees and their root systems. If you are a Tomb Raider fan, you are sure to recognise this temple from the movie. The temple has many narrow corridors, giving it a maze-like effect, although several are impassable. There is a greenish hue to the entire structure, as it stands part of the jungle, untouched by modern life. Next was Angkor Thom, the remnants of an elaborate, ancient city. It contains many temples including the Terrace of the Elephants, Phimeanakas and I ended the day with sunset at the Bayon temple. When I think of my trip, the memory of those 200-odd striking, smiling faces on the towers of the Bayon is one of my favourites. 

At the end of it, this resilient country and its lovely locals are sure to forge a place in your heart.

Best time to visit 

November to March 

Climate 

Tropical

Must-Visits

Choeung Ek Memorial Park, Ta Prohm, Central Market, Angkor Wat, National Museum of Cambodia 

Old Is Gold At Pen House 

Kochi’s oldest pen shop is not just about selling pens, but about creating a rapport with them

Not so far from the entrance to a buzzing street at Broadway is one of Kochi’s oldest pen shops, standing face-to-face with the iconic Bharath Coffee House. Started back in 1964, the shop, simply called the Pen House, is now run by Sabu P M, who inherited the business from his father P M Joseph when he was just 16 years old. The charm of the place is that it is no bigger than a payphone booth and yet sees a deluge of regular customers who come to get their pens repaired or checked.

Amid a vast collection of pens, Sabu stands with his head held high as he speaks about his humble fortune. “Back in the day, my father used to work at a famous pen factory in Kozhikode and after he returned, he founded this store which was the first of its kind in Kochi. Today, I am grateful that I inherited this business from him and that I could study a lot about pens,” he says. Two quirky caricatures hang from the low ceiling of the store—of his father in the guise of a pen doctor tending to a long queue of injured pens. And pointing to these, Sabu says, “There were times when there used to be a long queue outside our store and we even had workers at the store to help us out with the customers. But the times have changed, and the rush is not as much as it used to be.” 

From the neon-coloured pens that cost just ₹2 to fountain pens that cost not more than ₹300, Sabu sells a variety of low-cost pens to his customers. Recently, he started selling eco-friendly paper pens which can be thrown out, guilt-free, after use. Another interesting variety exclusive to his store is the seed pen and pencil that contain seeds of plants. 

However, in a world underpinned by the digital, there are very few who faithfully write using pens and books, except students and the few odd birds. In this context, Sabu’s little shop is a tribute to the olden days when people considered it a pride to carry a pen in their pockets, just like how people flaunt their fancy phones or watches today. “Dupont Paris is my personal favourite among pens, but it is a rare sight today,” he says. There was a collection of pens which Sabu’s father had given to him for safekeeping. A few years back, a fire broke out at the store and some of the pens were destroyed. However, Sabu still carries a metal pen in his pocket and says it has been one of his favourite pens from the collection.

An ardent believer, Sabu swells with gratitude as he says god has given him something which he hasn’t given anybody else— a flair to understand and study the world of pens. He can talk and write endlessly about the magic of pens and it stands as a testament to his rooted devotion to pens. 

“Whenever I find time to write, I write about pens and their glory, because they’ve given me a life,” he says. Sabu claims that pens are often a remedy to most of his aches and pains. “Sometimes when I get headaches, I choose a pen from my collection to write with, which, I know, can alleviate my pain. I think everyone should choose a pen that suits them the most,” he adds, enigmatically. The tiny store that overlooks the busy street is open on almost all days throughout the year. Sabu, who has a family of four, says the business makes him a happier man. 

“On certain days, I come early to the store in the hope of finding new customers,” he says. “Even when the business hits a low, it still gives me enough money to make ends meet.” As computers, e-books, and e-pens flourish, Sabu’s dreams of improving his pen business are at stake and he voices his concern. “Is it really true what I hear about pens and papers going out of use?” he asks of anyone who picks up a conversation with him. 

“My school-going children are not old enough yet to take up responsibilities in this business. My elder one, studying in class 10, aspires to be an advocate and I hope I can support her in her higher studies as well,” adds Sabu. The positive person that he is, Sabu still believes he will start a new business when the time is ripe.  

Trivia

Price range of pens sold at Pen House

₹2 – ₹300

Best-selling pens

Cello ballpoint pens

Pen House timings

10am to 7pm

Last of Kochi’s Dhobis

The story of what is perhaps the only community laundry space to exist not just in Kochi, but in God’s Own Country

Back in the day, dhobis and dhobi ghats were a common element in our neighbourhoods, and some of us may even remember a dhobi doing his weekly rounds on a bicycle in our colonies. But since launderettes and dry-cleaners took over, the dhobi community has been forced to take a backseat. Kochi has successfully housed a dhobi khana for several decades. We bring to you the story of what is perhaps the only community laundry space to exist not just in Kochi, but in God’s Own Country.

Waltz through Veli Street in Fort Kochi,and you’ll be greeted by the sight of clothes of different colours strung on a clothesline dancing over the green grass, and the sound of classic MGR melodies and Rajnikant tunes. Walk past the gate marked ‘Dhobi Khana’ and you’ll see posters of Thalaiva plastered on the walls. Against this filmi backdrop are a number of rather old, grey-haired, lungi-clad men and saree-clad women ironing clothes in 40-odd washing booths in the three-acre compound.

Kochi’s historic Dhobi Khana, nestled among quaint Fort Kochi streets, is run by the Vannar community from Tamil Nadu. It is widely believed that their settlement here dates back more than three centuries. While some part of history accounts that the Dutch brought in the Vannars from Tamil Nadu to manage their soldiers’ laundry, another states that the erstwhile King of Kochi brought them in from Tirunelveli and Coimbatore to take care of the Portuguese troop’s laundry. Yet another claims that the British brought in Tamilians from their native villages to Kochi to work as washermen.

However the case lies, the Vannars were formally organised as a community in the 1920s; over the years they have preserved their cohesive identity. While the earliest Dhobi Khana was put together under the Madras Presidency, the current establishment in Fort Kochi was built in 1976 by GCDA, the statutory body overseeing the development of Kochi city.

The Dhobi Khana laundry collective comprises around 50 families who work day in and day out. The community, which offers their services to hospitals, households, hostels, hotels, government organisations, and even a few cruise ships, still makes use of traditional methods to wash clothes.

“The washing booths are allotted to different families and water pools are provided for each. We wash clothes by beating them directly and repeatedly on stone slabs, mostly while standing ankle-deep in water,” says Shanmugam. “Prior to washing, we soak the clothes in bleach and detergent water. For starching cotton clothes we use rice water, and to get rid of stains we use a bit of chlorine,” adds Pratti.

Many of them, like Murugappan (77), Shanmugam (90) and Pratti (72), have been part of the community and have lived in Kochi since their childhood. “We leave the washed clothes out to dry in the sun for around 5 hours. As opposed to using clothes pegs to pin clothes to the clothesline, we use a technique which involves tucking in clothes between the ropes such that they aren’t affected by winds,” says Murugappan excitedly. “Many of us still use coconut shell charcoal to fire our 8kg traditional clothes irons. Some of the irons we use today are almost 50 years old and were brought in from Sri Lanka,” add Shanmugam and Pratti.

We couldn’t help but notice a huge washing machine in a washing booth, visibly unused. When asked about it, 72-year-old Kamalamma explains, “The washing machine is used only when people are sick and unable to carry out the washing procedures manually. People come to us because we wash clothes in the traditional manner and they trust us with it.”

The registered Vannar Sangham society has not only helped the dhobis organise their work, but has also been instrumental in shaping their life otherwise. All the families live as a community on Dhobi Street (opposite Dhobi Khana) in concrete houses, and some of them have even purchased their own vehicles. To keep their tiny tots engaged while they work, there is also a small park with swings, seesaws and slides. Restrooms, a badminton court, and a common area for indoor games are a few of the other facilities one can find here. “We also have a delivery van which is used to pick up and drop off big laundry orders, mostly from hotels, hospitals and cruise ships,” says Satheesh, secretary of the Dhobi Khana Association.

While most of us await the arrival of monsoon, the Dhobi Khana community usually wishes the rains would stay at bay. “The monsoon is a difficult time,” says Devadas (62), who started working at 15. “We do use dryers during the monsoon but without the sun it gets quite difficult,” adds Kamalamma. Apart from the fact that the dhobis here use traditional methods to wash clothes, they only charge a nominal fee for their services. “Their low rates are definitely their USP. While an average laundry in the city charges (a minimum of) INR 50 for washing and ironing a shirt or a pant, we, at the Dhobi Khana, only charge INR 25 for the same.” Satheesh goes on to say, “Just around 20 per cent of our community’s youth carry forward the familial job of being a dhobi. The rest get educated and find white-collar jobs.” And although Satheesh works as a software engineer at a private firm in Ernakulam, he does a fine job at balancing his city life and livelihood by doing community dhobi services whenever he gets a day off. 

And even though the Dhobi Khana is up and running now, the community believes their profession is dying a slow death. Shedding more light on this, Murugappan says, “Our children and grandchildren shy away from being dhobis in the traditional sense of the word. Literacy has brought about a new way of life and typically, they all (want to) pursue college education and start working regular outside jobs.”

Flavour of Punjab, In The Heart of Kochi

Punjab House, home to the tastiest lassi around, is also Kochi’s go-to place for the perfect North Indian meal

By Siva Kiran

 

The sizzling aloo and gobi ka paratha, the distinctive subzis, the mouth-watering sev tomato, and of course, the undisputed champion of them all: the sweet, divine lassi; for a taste all these goodies, the first name that comes to mind for any Kochiite is none other than Broadway’s own Punjab House. One need only ask, or even mention the name, and enthusiastic hands point out the direction in an all-familiar sense of belongingness. For that is indeed the feeling that Punjab House and its wonderfully amicable owner, Brahamdev K Dhupar evoke in the people of Kochi. Now 64, Brahmadev, who used to work as an engineer for Sony, took over the running of the hotel 16 years ago. 

The restaurant was started by his mother, Pushpa Krishnalal, in 1969, once they had settled in Kochi after his father’s retirement from the Armed Forces. Back in the day, there was just one north Indian restaurant in the whole city. Now, even though there are so many north Indian restaurants all across Kochi, what sets Punjab House apart is that it is a ‘humble’ place with reasonable rates, in Brahmadev’s words. Unlike traditional Punjabi hotels, however, tandoori and other non-vegetarian dishes are not what you’ll find here. Instead, you’ll be overwhelmed by the variety of simple yet stunning vegetarian dishes. For this decades-old restaurant, there is no apparent rush hour as the crowd seems to keep pouring in, with no visible signs of ebbing. Repeat customers dine here twice a day, some on a regular basis.

A curious sight you’ll see here is the unique billing system using slate, chalk and inexplicable codes. Brahmadev explains that this is the continuation of the system introduced by his father, who mimicked the system used by the canteen at the air base he was stationed in before the Partition. Each item in the restaurant’s diverse menu has its own code, which each member of the enterprise knows by heart. As the customer orders, the code for each individual item is added onto the allotted slate space, and finally all the codes are translated and added together to  make the bill. 

Brahmadev feels nothing much has changed with the advent of online food delivery apps as his daily customers rarely break their routines. When asked what advice he would give someone who wishes to start a hotel in Kochi, he has a realistic answer: “In this time, with so many hotels in Kochi,” he says, “it is not that easy to run the show without a solid, established name in the business.” Brand name, it would seem, plays a very large role in determining success in the restaurant business. And who wouldn’t know about it more than Brahmadev himself, whose hard work and dedication earned Punjab House a very special place in our hearts?

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